Not sure I’m taking about the same thing but what I’ve seen is people printing a couple of layers out of pla then switching to other material to avoid having to mess with glue or else. This is to avoid bounding with plate as it can happen with petg or other material. But in no case I’ve seen people printing entire build area, usually the same size as print + a bit of extra to pull off that pla layer

Not sure that’s a leak but couple of pictures available. Will add them later

Pla and Petg are fine but as already talked, they are other things to take in consideration. Best thing you can do is to apply a coating of food safe epoxy.

You can use a slicer feature which will pause at some specific layer, if you have a dedicated app on your phone, it will notify you that printer has been paused.

I had no idea there could be alternative firmware for the camera. Will check that. Thanks

It’s either over extruding or a bed level issue. First level bed again and if it still happening calibrate your extrusion flow. Since you had adhesion issue, probably just bed leveling will solve issue. If bed is well leveled and still have adhesion issue, clean your bed with basic soap and hot water (and avoid touching bed with your hand as much as possible)

Don’t know where you heard that but micro Swiss hotend has been really popular until dragon hotend came out. I’m not saying it is better than dragon but was known to work great. About prices, it might depend where you live as I just checked right now and dragon is more expensive than micro Swiss.

Oh, then I guess I didn’t understand OP correctly as I understood he has a Bowden setup with his orbiter. Thanks

Don’t know which printer you have but if your main interest is a direct drive setup over Bowden, chances are that you can setup your orbiter 1.5 as direct drive by printing some adapter.

You can check here if a solution suits your need https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/energy/electricity-grid/

Mines are not outdoor rated, they are just bulb behind (don’t know the word in English) https://duckduckgo.com/?q=applique+extérieure+lumière+&t=fpas&iax=images&ia=images

Here is one outside rated (but should have more available) https://www.bestbuy.com/site/philips-hue-white-welcome-outdoor-floodlight-black/6326654.p?skuId=6326654&intl=nosplash

It is normal behaviour to have them locked to 2.4ghz (just like any other wifi smart things). And it is better that way as 2.4ghz has a longer wifi range than 5ghz.

I have some hue light (ZigBee) for some years and they are rock solid but pricey. That being said, another possibility for your issue could be wifi interference, you could try to analyse and change wifi Channel on your router to see if it gets better.

What papalonian said is right, when this machine came out it was expensive but as today standard, this machine isn’t worth much so don’t spend a lot of money on it. Every plastic part that you see can be printed with your printer. Should be available in their GitHub page. Nonetheless, it’s a great printer to learn 3d printing

Ça rend bien, merci

Thanks

Nice, that’s remind me that I have also a printer card/page to create

I have forgotten about bubble card, thanks. Started a test with a vertical stack then insert horizontal stack. I’ve tried with mushroom card but might replace those with bubble card

Thanks for sharing

Haven’t read so can’t tell you but you will find info at https://leminal.space/post/11699480

Cura can ignore what’s below buildplate as long as part isn’t too big for X Y axes. For cutting this, I would use 3d builder. Very easy to use. Just open model, and go to modify to cut model