I think xournal++ has a journal background to handwrite music

That’s so cool, I almost forgot this game had a PC version. I uses to play it a lot as a kid, but I only 109%'ed it a coupleof years ago on the Wii. I guess it runs using Proton?

In the last few months I haven’t run a lot because of the weather (hot and humid) and because of a crap ton of uni work for my thesis. Yesterday I finally managed to run a 10k after literally months. With respect to my usual form it was terrible, i run a 6:10min/km when usually I’m well below 5:45, but considering I had run like twice in the past month and a half and had been months since my last 10k I’d say it was a good result

I started using OpenTracks a couple years ago and ditched runtastic (i keep calling that, it’s been adidas running for ages) when I discovered it made my runs public, with gps data and all, for the social features of their app. OpenTracks is FOSS, I got it from fdroid, the data stays on your phone, you do what you want with it. And most importantly it only tracks your activity, just that, no social media crap.

Then again if you don’t want to track your runs just don’t, I personally do it because I like to see my progression and to keep notes to myself on how/what/when i eat/sleep/etc effects my runs and stuff like that

Why not both

Baikal works wonders

Nah 85/90 degrees is perfect for the job. Much better and more uniform than a heatgun, let alone a hairdryer

Is that a motorola moto z2 play? I owned that phone and I used to disassemble it just like this!

Edit: saw in another comment that it’s a z4. The camera did look strange for a z2 at a second glance

While I don’t remember his name, I remember there was a Darknet Diaries episode about the researcher who first investigated the problem. The episode was very thorough, I liked it a lot. I also don’t remember the name of the episode, so I guess this comment is kinda useless

I second this

Also dumbest idea, have you tried a brand new spool of PLA? Just to exclude an incredibly wet filament. Because that can cause all sorts of problems

Hello, I suggested heat creep in your last post, which didn’t end up being the issue. I don’t remember if anyone suggested it, but have you tried checking the bowden assembly, on the motor side? Whether the stepper works, or the gears wore down (I’m pointing towards this), or there are clogs somewhere in the mechanism, even some dust that accumulated where it shouldn’t had. Or did you change settings like the current limit on the steppers? If that’s controlled with a potentiometer on the main board, maybe it got turned down for some reason (if so, I’d try to understand why’s that). I don’t know how Klipper handles motor drivers where current limits are controlled in software, I know that Marlin has a dedicated submenu in the Configuration>Advanced Configuration. If you reflashed the firmware, maybe the settings where in the eeprom and did not get transfered over or got overwritten in the flashing process.

I remembered that on a couple different printers I had the same problem as you, and it came down to damaged/untightened nozzles (which you excluded already) or wore down gears or, on the printer I’m working on right now, too low current limits which made the stepper skip steps somewhat randomly

That’s exactly how I wpuld test heat creep. Maybe that’s not it

Since you’ve already excluded a damaged nozzle and other parts, I’m gonna suggest heatcreep.

Maybe the extruder fan broke, so heat creeping up the extruder and melting the filament before it should?

Nekogram X?

Ah, good old PlarformIO

Also depending on the architecture on the computer, this might be the only possible solution. I have a samsung m2020 series printer connected to a Pi to share it on the local network. Samsung Unified Driver does not work on armhf as it is only compiled for x86/x64, but splix can be compiled on armhf and it actually supports my printer

Others are saying to switch to the specific driver for your printer. If you do not want to go proprietary you could try and see if your printer is supported by the splix driver

What did you do to keep the card cool?

Poorly. Had 3d printer a fan duct and ducted a fan to the back of the case, to push-pull air. Those cards are made to work in server racks, with really high pressure and high speed fans, not really for a desktop. I have seen people on reddit mounting a modified 3070ti cooler on the tesla, but I had not had a chanve to try that.

And was it loud?

Yes, depending on the fans used. But high speed fans are generally loud. Also lots of vibrations, but that qas mostly fault of my incredibly sketchy setup

I used to do this with a nvidia tesla m40 and a radeon hd6850. Used the tesla for rendering amd encoding, the radeon for display output. I just followed the arch wiki pages related to nvidia optimus laptops and PRIME offloading. It worked but was a bit junk, in some other tests I did, when the radeon was used to render the DE, I had a much more fluid experience, offloading the rendering seems to lead to some micro stutters every now and then that make it a not so fluid experience. But ymmv I guess. Also I haven’t had any luck with two separate nvidia cards, but that was probably due to driver version mismatch between the two cards