While I prefer IRL clothes shopping, the range of clothes at my nearby stores sucks so badly that online is vastly superior for me. Once you have a list of shops that you trust it’s easy to go shopping.

This is partly due to my body shape being an athletic build. Buying online from stores that list the actual clothing measurements means I can choose stuff that actually fits me properly. IRL near me just has generic sizing that is either too tight across the shoulders or far too long.

I spend above average on clothing, your generic brands even online don’t offer actual clothing measurements, but then I would rather have a smaller number of items that are good quality and fit rather than be wasteful with disposable fast fashion thst doesn’t last and doesn’t fit.

Levers can be the ultimate for long lasting as virtually zero parts to wear out especially the ones that require you to heat up the water yourself, but I would struggle to recommend one to someone coming from a bean to cup due to the difficultly factor. My first espresso was a Flair, having to get the temp, speed, and pressure consistent every time for every shot at 6am in the morning was a complete PITA on top of getting the grind, temp, and weight right for that shot. I soon switched to an E61 as its just push button in comparison.

Long term I want a lever like the Strietman CT2 but not till I get a Decent for everyday use.

Moka is to espresso as french press is to drip, they just not the same. Nothing wrong with them, but its a false equivalence. If you prefer moka then drink it, if you prefer espresso then drink that instead.

A good e61 based espresso machine should last forever as every part is replaceable and readily available. Something like the gaggia classic. Granted, they aren’t 30 bucks, but they are cheaper than any expensive bean to cup machine.

I switched to working out at home and saved a whole bunch of time I used to spend getting to and from the gym, plus all the faffing about waiting to get on the stations I wanted to use. Its not going to work for everyone but if you can do some sort of workout at home or at work if you lucky enough to work somewhere that has facilitates, then you can save a whole bunch of time.

As others have mentioned switching to high intensity can give you as big an impact in a lot less time. Unless you training for endurance events spending a couple of hours working out everyday can actually be counter productive. I used to train twice a day six days a week, an hours weights in the morning then two to three hours of BJJ/Kickboxing and I never made the same strength gains as when I toned that shit down.

Two hours is pretty excessive, you should be doing 10 minutes stretching tops, unless its an actual stretching workout such as yoga or you are working out an injury. Spending an hour on a stair master or a runner is only good if you actually challenging your heart rate during that time, and then only if you working on endurance for a reason.

Does it have enough power to handle routing (not just switching) 2.5Gb + 2.5Gb + whatever the WiFi can support? My guess is it cannot and it would have pushed the price up signifcantly to do so.

Does seem counter intuitive to me as this is squarely aimed at enthusiasts who would like to min max their home network.

UK, £8 a month for 12Gb, unlimited calls and texts, Europe and US roaming included. However, the speed of the roaming just is garbage, completely useless for anything other than text only IMs. If you pay the daily premium, it suddenly improves to useful speed.

Roaming anywhere else is expensive enough to bankrupt a billionaire, something like 50p a Mb, yes Mb not Gb. And that’s on top of a daily roaming charge that’s mandatory in those regions.

Normally I just pick up a local sim when abroad as the roaming is just garbage.

What most people are describing here as an improvement is actually HDR rather than a straight resolution upgrade. Not all 4k downloads (or even actual streams) include HDR for all films, so concentrating on films with HDR and preferably Dolby Vision, assuming your TV supports it, is what I would recommend.

Obviously, not all films are going to be better just because they now have HDR. Even if they have good HDR, there might be other issues such as the green tint for Fellowship of the Ring or the recent problems with the Aliens AI remaster.

Final thing, if your TV is only average at HDR, then it might not even be worth seeking them out. I went from an average 7 year old LED with basic HDR support to a top of the range LG oled, and it’s night and day better with HDR for good material.

The sort of natural looking and sincere charm that someone like Robert Downey Jr. can just turn on and work the whole room at once, not that fake or smarmy shit that has people commenting that it fake after the fact.

I’ve worked with accounts guys who can do it, I’ve watched them work close up, but I be damned if I cant just naturally do that.

Tesla have a CVT gearbox? Like actual gearbox that ice cars have? First, I’ve ever heard of them having a proper gearbox. First production ev I heard of with an actual gearbox is the taycan, that has a two speed, fully auto gearbox. Nit aware of any others with an actual gearbox.

You know how regen works right? And that the brake pedal on modern evs don’t engage regen as fully as they are engaging the brakes as that’s what that pedal is for. Engage the brakes and you aren’t going to get anywhere near the energy back from regen as a ton of energy is being wasted by friction and thus heat of the brake pads.

I’ve owned a lexis 400h, i like the idea of them, but cvts are garbage to drive, even in hybrids. They also completely unsuitable for evs due to their wide torque band, they work best for ice engines have have narrow torque bands as the entire function of a cvt is to adjust to a narrow rev range to optimise that narrow torque band.

Any decent car in the tesla price bracket has configurable regen from all the way off to progressively more regen all thr way up to one pedal driving that will apply the brakes for you to come to a complete stop without touching thr pedal.

Vast majority of these it’s switched between the modes using the paddle shift. If you can understand changing gears on a modern ice auto using the paddles, then it’s not beyond the average driver to quickly get to grips with using it for regen.

I’d you feather the throttle as you start to slow down you can moderate the amount of regen dynamically without having to change modes. However that requires more skill than the average driver seem capable of.

Cheaper evs tend to have off, on, and may be one pedal driving modes, but they have to cut things to be cheaper as with all cars.

I get between a fifth and a quarter back of my energy consumption from using regen. Learning how to use it is essential for good economy, and it makes you safer as you plan ahead more for where you want to slow down. The least safest way to drive is emergency braking 10m before a stop sign as your default driving style

It’s a legal requirement of SOLAS. They would be in the shit if they didn’t, and the people later died. As the cruise ship has AIS, there would be proof that they were the closest vessel.

I would like them to try to go to Mars this coming January. I am sure with enough fuel one of Elons rockets can get it moving in the right direction, they can wing everything else as they go.

I’m fairly broad for my height and need a taped waist on tops so I’m a bit of an outlier.

I won’t buy clothes now that doesn’t put the actual measurements of the clothes on the listing for the item because otherwise, I have no idea what the fit is actually like.

If you buying more expensive trousers then you can have the waist tailored to reduce it. I typically buy 40" and have them reduced to a 34". Obviously, this isn’t worth doing if you buying half a dozen for £50 from h&m or similar budget trousers.

A more mundane one, but people on reasonably normal incomes living in a house that’s at least one order of magnitude more expensive than they could ever afford even if they purchased it twenty or thirty years ago. Its particularly bad in things set in expensive areas like London or New York or Tokyo. Like being able to afford a house in central London rather than renting a flat with three other people takes substantial money, you aren’t going to be afford that if you work in a supermarket.

Unless you are buying your beans from somewhere like Starbucks they should not be that oily that the grinder needs its burrs cleaning. If you are buying Starbucks (or similar) beans then the single biggest upgrade you can do is to start buying quality beans from a specialty roaster. Its not as hard as it was a few years ago to get dark roast from a proper specialty roaster when the fad was for almost under roasted beans, thankfully that trend is drawing to a close.

Dark roast only I would only consider conical personally. The best flat burrs for dark roast just emulate the output you getting by default from most conical burrs, so why not just get the ones made for the job in the first place?

I am not sure what your budget is but something like a Helor Flux would be similar pricing to the DF83 and the Flux comes with immense 73mm Mazzer burrs that are hard to beat for dark roast. Only downside is that its a hand grinder, and take about 45 seconds to grind an espresso sized set of beans. I hand grind both espresso and pour over when I am not at home and its manageable if you are not doing too many shots back to back.

Otherwise the bigger conicals with a motor tend to be a lot more than the DF83. I would really stay away from the Niche Zero (and its bigger brother), they are overpriced and just not good value in today’s market. I used to own a Zero and its frankly disappointing for its price point, I sold mine and made nearly enough money to buy my (secondhand) DF83 with the upgraded burrs.

Something like a Femobook A68 would be around the same price as the DF83 and is motorized. I have not personally tried it, but it has decent reviews. I quite fancy getting one as another grinder (I have a Timemore 078 as well for pour over) for home for when I want dark roast as my setup is very much tailored to light/medium-light.

So what grinder you choose should be shaped by what brewing method and then what roast level you mostly brew with. For you thats espresso and what, medium to dark roast?

I have a DF83, one of the early ones, but with the SSP High Uniformity burrs that are an expensive but worth while upgrade for light to medium light roast beans. I would not recommend these burrs if you prefer a darker roast, as those flat burrs I have are the exact opposite.

The DF83 produces great results but the early DF83s do need constant care over retention as they can get blocked if you don’t. The DF83V solves a lot of the problem with my one, while still enabling a large number of suitable replacement burrs.

I would consider a similar price point conical burr grinder if you prefer mouth feel/more soupier coffee and plan on sticking with darker roasts.

I have gnome installed and setup as a backup, plus I use its greeter, but I am another who does not really want a full DE and instead using Sway as my WM day to day.

I have two 32"@4k monitors so normal manual floating window management just annoys me, I greatly prefer tiling window management to auto sort my windows for me. Its extremely rare that I need to full screen anything on monitors this large to fit everything I want in width wise so I want multiple apps per monitor.

If all of this is managed dynamically for me, and I am not manually sizing or overlapping stuff, all the better. Couple that with easy use of multiple workspaces for different tasks (I typically use three per monitor), rarely do I have a need to manually resize anything. I have it setup to open my common apps on the right workspace for me, and each workspace set to the right layout for that set of apps, so much less faffing.

My (40%) keyboard(s) run QMK and are setup to enable most of my common combos, such as switching workspace, moving apps around are never more than two keys. The more I can do without moving my hands from the keyboard, the better for me.

Final thing is that Sway is wayland and for me extremely stable.

I just use my Google Home Max for timers, it’ll display three timers at once on the screen and I can get the status of any or all with voice at any point. Plus it’ll do all the usual assistant stuff of conversions, cooking temperatures, and has a big enough screen for me to read recipes or follow along with a recipe video. Bonus feature is that its a reasonable loud speaker as well so I do not need a separate radio in the kitchen.

Sure its not as pretty as the clock but its a whole lot more useful for cooking.