𞋴𝛂𝛋𝛆

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Cake day: June 9th, 2023

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  • It is just a cleanliness standard. It is not required. I spent a decade in the details of automotive paint. I only covered the surface basics for paint. What I call clean for paint is an order of magnitude more dirty than a surgeon, and they are orders of magnitude more dirty than a silicon chip foundry. When it comes to making plastic stick and look pretty, an automotive painter might be helpful for framing the scope of what is possible. All I can tell you is I have a Prusa and never have these problems, so I explained my experience and methodology as to why I do as I said. Again, sorry this upsets you.



  • It can coat the inside of the drier. Use Bounty paper towels as a control when in question. Bounty are often used in automotive paint shops for a few reasons, but they are trustworthy for composition. If the two plies are separated, they make a good strain filter. That is the primary reason they are used. They also tend to be lower lint though not perfect. A tack cloth is used in the booth with controlled filtered air flow either across or down draft, so it is not a concern for perfect paint.

    One of the tricks of automotive painting is to add a couple of drops of Palmolive dish soap to the water bucket used with wet sanding. It makes 3M Imperial Wet/Dry sandpaper last several times longer and acts as a mild degreaser the whole time. Any residue is cleaned in the booth stage using a special Wax and Grease Remover solvent that is the least reactive of the painting solvents. While this solvent is used extensively, still the fact that Palmolive dish soap can be used at all indicates how it is clean, consistent, and chemically irrelevant. Automotive paint reacts with many chemicals but specifically silicon is the worst problem. It causes fisheyes aka little divot like holes to form in the clearcoat. In most situations involving contamination and adhesion, silicon is the main issue that will be very persistent. It is so bad in automotive paint that in the worst cases, we turn to adding an actual silicon solution into the 2k clearcoat and trying to guess what concentration will match the problem area to level it. Otherwise, the entire job must be stripped to the raw surface and start over. Silicon issues only show up in the final wet clearcoat layer shortly after it is sprayed and leveled.

    The reason why I have written all of this is to illustrate this point: the silicon is essentially floating on every underlying layer. The solvent has wet the area and the silicon just floats to the top of some filler, 2k primer, sealer, top coat color and when it gets to the clearcoat it blows a hole through it. There are two solutions. Use a two part epoxy primer that is a pain in the ass to sand, or clean the the raw surface with lacquer thinner or virgin acetone. In automotive paint, those two solvents are dangerous for causing a ton of other contamination and reactions issues. However, these are the only solvents that will take off silicon without diluting it and making the problem worse. Alcohol is a joke with no place in the automotive paint world when I was painting. I got out before water based stuff ruined the industry by making refinishing exponentially more expensive. That is only the color coat and some primers, so there may be alcohol used in some way in these, but it will not involve cleaning. Tire shine is the main source of silicon issues in automotive paint.

    I have the empirical experience to know what I am looking at with cleaning and solvents. Alcohol is okay for minor issues, but think of it as constantly diluting and wiping the problem across the whole surface. Eventually, just use some virgin acetone to actually clean the thing properly. Paint is just plastic too. Each type requires a different type of tooth to mechanically bond to. With printing, I use 600 grit to lightly knock the shine off of the print plate surface. I go lighter on the textured sheet, but I only use the textured sheet with PETG because it is the only one that takes the textured pattern completely without showing layer lines. I print weekly on average, and use acetone and sandpaper around once a year. When I use glue stick, I clean the plate with dish soap after. I use alcohol in between. You will need an enclosure for ASA, ABS, and any larger PC prints regardless of the sheet or glue. Two IKEA Lack tables with legs stacked using double sided screws, then a clear shower curtain liner, and some tack nails does the job for under $50.

    I would never use towels from any drier that has ever had fabric softener used in it for automotive paint. That is a contamination nightmare for me.


  • llama.cpp is at the core of almost all offline, open weights models. The server it creates is Open AI API compatible. Oobabooga Textgen WebUI is more user GUI oriented but based on llama.cpp. Oobabooga has the setup for loading models with a split workload between the CPU and GPU which makes larger gguf quantized models possible to run. Llama.cpp, has this feature, Oobabooga implements it. The model loading settings and softmax sampling settings take some trial and error to dial in well. It helps if you have a way of monitoring GPU memory usage in real time. Like I use a script that appends my terminal window title bar with GPU memory usage until inference time.

    Ollama is another common project people use for offline open weights models, and it also runs on top of llama.cpp. It is a lot easier to get started in some instances and several projects use Ollama as a baseline for “Hello World!” type stuff. It has pretty good model loading and softmax settings without any fuss, but it does this at the expense of only running on GPU or CPU but never both in a split workload. This may seem great at first, but if you never experience running much larger quantized models in the 30B-140B range, you are unlikely to have success or a positive experience overall. The much smaller models in the 4B-14B range are all that are likely to run fast enough on your hardware AND completely load in your GPU memory if you only have 8GB-24GB. Most of the newer models are actually Mixture of Experts architectures. This means it is like loading ~7 models initially, but then only inferencing two of them at any one time. All you need is the system memory or the Deepspeed package (uses disk drive for excess space required) to load these larger models. Larger quantized models are much much smarter and more capable. You also need llama.cpp if you want to use function calling for agentic behaviors. Look into the agentic API and pull history in this area of llama.cpp before selecting what models to test in depth.

    Huggingface is the goto website for sharing and sourcing models. That is heavily integrated with GitHub, so it is probably as toxic long term, but I do not know of a real FOSS alternative for that one. Hosting models is massive I/O for a server.



  • PLA will be better for hardware store and hobby junk. You cannot use automotive class finishes and expect them to last. Generally stick to one brand. Most paints are formulated for steel. ABS is the closest to steel in thermal properties. The expansion is the most important attribute. PLA has a different thermal profile so catalysed 2-part paints will not work very well long term. Rattle can enamel is junk by comparison, but it never fully cures like automotive paints. That property helps it stay in place longer in general. There are special adhesion promoters like bulldog for automotive stuff, but the thermal properties will still be an issue.

    Pro automotive paint is 99.9% sanding and prep work. It is far more intense and rigorous than people realize. Perfection happens in the prep work. The actual paint is just a way of showing off that perfection. Mastering automotive paint is actually all about defeating yourself. Perfection is not subject to your emotions or expectations. It is right when it is perfect.

    You want the highest pressure spray cans as possible. Also, if you do not used all of the can at once, flip it upside down and clear the nozzle by letting the siphon into the empty void and spraying. If you have a compressor that does not shoot out a bunch of oil or water, a cheap Harbor Freight pink gun with the nozzle of the can beside the spray gun will work wonders by atomizing the spray far more effectively.




  • You are solely responsible for vetting the software that you choose to run.

    I do not review or care about the tools a person uses to create their projects. I appreciate the disclaimer when the person discloses their aptitude and confidence in their code.

    Free software and Unix culture is a culture of hackers. Stallman’s very degree is in AI. Emacs is mostly a thing because lisp was adapted early on for AI development many decades ago.

    Junk code is nothing new. X11 is notoriously bad, yet you likely have parts of it running on your hardware. Proprietary code is far far worse than anything a hacker posts as open source, yet you are running proprietary blobs on whatever device you are looking at now. Even if you are like myself with a libreboot machine, Leah readily admits that you need to run the core duo microcode if you want it to run right, and are not using that hardware for your primary device. The culture of antiAI is dogmatic nonsense. It is a tool, not a religion. It can be used harmfully or helpfully. I can’t fix stupid in anyone except myself. I do not fault anyone for what they run, the projects they share, or the background they come from. I encourage everyone to be positive and help their fellow hackers. I value participation and enthusiasm. Dogma and negativity are toxic.

    I am ultra liberal. You have a right to all information, a right to skepticism, a right to error, and a right to protest in non violent forms aka the right to offend others. You do not have a right to infringe the rights of others.

    This anti AI populism infringes the rights to all information and right to error if any administrative actions are taken. Your right to protest and skepticism is duly noted. If these become toxic in any ways that alter the dissemination of information, or toxic/harmful to the individual sharing information, I will remove the offending comments. If the person continues, I will escalate. I am only the janitor here. I clean up the messes. I do not matter, but neither does anyone else here. It is a community, and only the community matters. Garbage software is bog standard. Crusade against things that matter like proprietary software leveraged hardware theft and SaaS.




  • No. The primary way of blocking radio is by raising the noise floor across the band. The type of radio is irrelevant. The protocol is irrelevant. It is all only the electromagnetic spectrum from infrared light, to visible spectrum light, to radio light, through to xray or gamma ray light. How we divide that up into protocols, bands, and names is totally irrelevant. When transmitting radio light, we are all restricted in how much power we are allowed to send. All receiver circuits are listening for meaningful information above the noise floor. Bands are allocated to try to create spaces for certain types of communications. This controls the noise floor. Then electrical engineers design the hardware you buy to operate within this specification. If that noise floor is raised, the physical hardware is unable to retrieve information and effectively makes it useless. If you are a radio wizard and build your own transmitter that has more power, you just created a giant beacon that anyone will track easily to your location. Transmitting always reveals your exact location. In military operations, you constantly hear about some entity going radio silent. This is why. If you are a soldier, you may not carry a cell phone at all when on the job because it is constantly revealing your location. The only way to avoid this is with actually hard wire connections. You are able to use lasers for line of sight communications, but in practice, you will be limited by the optical lens focusing complexity and atmospheric distortion even from the ground with point to point regional communication. If anyone crosses the beam it will still be detected and is likely to leak some light depending on conditions and design.

    Ultimately, your only real option is the sneaker net which is damn near useless in US suburbia hell. Don’t forget that the freeway system was not created for the citizenry. It is only about military mobility. That is why the Germans made the autobahn and why the USA and others had to copy the idea. Your only defense is in the democratic political space.


  • 𞋴𝛂𝛋𝛆@lemmy.worldOPtopics@lemmy.worldCrew 11
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    26 days ago

    That is one of the original Ole Hanson homes. That far row are the ones on the sea cliff. Sucks because the train is just below them, and the cliffs are sedimentary marine deposition that has been uplifted on geological time scales. When it rains here in SoCal, and you hear about houses falling in landslides, this is one of those areas. None of these places are single family homes. That Ole Hanson one has six units IIRC. Only the ones on the cliff are super expensive.








  • The easiest way I know of to check any machine is to put another router or machine in front of it with a white list firewall or way of logging DNS traffic. You just need to spot the address in the list.

    DNS filtering usually only filters on incoming packets, but for bot stuff that should catch issues.

    In general, most routers run everything from a serial flash chip on the board. These are usually 8, 16, or 32 megabytes. They have a simple bootloader like U-Boot. This is what loads the operating system. These devices have a UART serial port on the PCB. You can use a USB to serial UART adaptor to see what is happening in the device. With a proprietary OS, you are still likely to see the pre-init boot sequence that the bootloader prints to terminal. Most operating systems also print information to this interface, at least of the couple dozen junk devices I have been given and messed around with. I make a little mount for a USB to serial adaptor and add it to all of my routers when new, so I only need to plug in USB to get to the internal bootloader and tty terminal interface of OpenWRT. You will need to know the default baud rate of the device, although it is probably listed somewhere online or can be guessed as one of the common high values at or above 9600.

    Getting into this further gets complicated. It is probably better to look for any CVE that is relevant to the device or software and work backwards. Look for any software updates that have obfuscated the risk for each CVE. If the issue was not fixed, that is where to look to see if someone has exploited the device. Ultimately, they need clock cycles from the CPU scheduler. So it must be a process or some way of executing code from unregistered memory.

    This is getting to the edge of what I have messed around with and understand. There may be a way to get a memory map that includes unused pages, and compare that with a hex dump of the flash memory. This is outside of your scope of a proprietary OS, but hopefully frames the abstract scope of what is possible on this class of device when you have an open source stack. The main advantage of this kind of device and issue is that you can physically remove the flash chip and then see and manipulate every page and memory location. The device likely doesn’t have microcode loaded into the CPU(s) that make it challenging to determine what is going on.

    There is probably an easier way, but a hex dump of the current system can be hashed against the factory updated version to see if any differences are present. It is likely that any exploit will include a string with the address to connect to somewhere in flash memory. It could be obfuscated through encryption or a cypher, but a simple check for strings in the hex dump and a grep for “http” is a simple way to looks for issues.

    The OpenWRT forum is a good general source. The people behind the bootloaders for these devices are also Linux kernel developers and on the OpenWRT forum.